There is a renewed need for mechanical filtration in our homes, as the technology that has become part of the house helps to work more efficiently, leading to a need for maintain air quality in much tighter quarters. This need is very significant, as the American Lung Association has compiled a list of correlations between asthma and lung health issues and the tightening of our homes and introduction of new chemistries to our indoor space. This one-two combo of new and increased pollutants and the smaller enclosures has led to the only possible solution; one must do what is needed to ensure that the air in our homes is fresh and pollutant free.

What is in our air?

It can be hard to fathom, but the air around us contains particulates. Some particulates you can see, for example those within a sunbeam, but most you are unable to see. Those we cannot see are the worst kind, such as VOCs. These threats are the most harmful.

The solution is to design and install a ventilation system. The system should filter air for all areas of the home, and the system must meet ASHREA standard 62-02. This states that the air movement should be 7.5 cubic feet a minute per bedroom plus and additional 0.01 CFM per square foot. A good rule of thumb is to have around 50 CFM for a 1900 square foot, average home. There are two principle design strategies to designing the ventilation system – exhaust and supply systems and air to air heat recover systems.

Exhaust and Supply Systems –

This system’s primary mechanism is the placement of an exhaust fan, typically on the second floor. This fan runs quietly either on a low speed continuous or high speed intermittent. This fans placement may allow it to piggy back other parts of the system, but over all the system uses the exhaust fan to take out fresh air for the inlet. The entire system can be modified by removing the exhaust fan and letting the air handler draw in fresh air. The cost of this system is between $400 and $1000, which is heavily dependent on the equipment used.

Air to Air Heat Recovery Systems –

This is a more expensive alternative that recovers some of its energy during its operation. The basic mechanism is that the exhaust passes by the incoming fresh air giving some of its heat (or cold) to the incoming air. These systems also have airflow adjustment to allow the system to work during exhaust. The price for the system can be from $1,800 and $2,500, again heavily dependent on the equipment utilized.

It is important to ensure that your home is free of airborne particles. Choose a high quality filter and a system designed for the needs of you home to ensure that the airborne pollutants are kept to a minimum. This is a necessary element to ensuring the respiratory health of you and your guests.

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Originally posted 2009-01-30 05:41:40. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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The first thing to understand is that there is a difference between vapor barriers and what air barriers are. When properly defined, a vapor barrier alone is not capable of controlling the movement of air, but rather it is responsible for controlling the movement of moisture. Vapor barriers are not actually barriers, but rather they are retarders of vapor diffusion. They regulate the flow of moisture from outside in or inside out on a molecular level. When the vapor diffusion retarder is used in the structure, the moisture control function happens. Unlike with an air filtration barrier then, the VDR does not have to be sealed, continuous or free of holes in order for it to do its job. These vapor barriers are rated based on the level of vapor diffusion control that they are capable of providing.

The original reason behind using vapor barriers was to keep ceiling and wall assemblies from becoming wet. Now when VDRs are installed onto an assembly interior, they can prevent inward drying as well which is actually capable of leading to serious problems such as mold and rot. Another variable to consider is climate. Another complication to the vapor flow between exterior and interior is cladding choices as some claddings are capable of retaining significant qualities of water when they become wet. In weather that is hot and humid, the moisture can be drawn inward, increasing the pressure of the vapor on the assembly.

The industry surrounding residential building has plenty of controversial construction techniques, and vapor barriers tend to rank high when it comes to these kinds of things. Few builders really understand how vapor barriers work and as a result, they do not know why or how to use them. Builders are not the only people that are confused, as building code officials also often misinterpret and misunderstand their requirements. Just because things were done a certain way in the past, that does not mean that today’s modern day wall systems will be the same way.

The current proposals are to define:

• Vapor barriers of 0.1 perm or less as Vapor Impermeable rather than Class I Vapor Retarder,
• Vapor barriers greater than 0.1 perm and less than 1.0 as Vapor Semi-Impermeable rather than Class II Vapor Retarder,
• Vapor barriers greater than 1.0 perm and less than 10 perms as Vapor Semi-Permeable rather than Class III Vapor Retarder,
• Vapor barriers greater than 10 perms as Vapor Permeable

When in doubt, Class I and Class II should only be used in the coldest zones, zones 7 and 8. In these zones you can use MemBrain, which installs like poly but behaves similar to a vapor diode which allows the perm rate to be increased when the vapor pressure is increased. Reducing the amount of vapor that enters a wall during the winter months will allow Class II requirements to be met. For other zones you can use a good quality wall primer in lieu of a traditional VDR. Before you prime the drywall, it has a perm rate of 50 but after a few coats of a latex based paint you will have a perm rate of only 2 or 3.

Photo Credits: RobW_

Originally posted 2009-07-22 05:17:11. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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In this current day and age, where common activities among people include the tightening of wallets and the fearing of soaring energy bills, almost everyone has had to adopt some substantial practices inside and outside of their own homes. Americans are also incorporating techniques in their landscaping that are allowing them to save on water and energy, according to a national study that was recently conducted on the subject of sustainability. Conducted on the behalf of a group called ALSA, or the American Society of Landscape Architects, as many as 96% of interviewed adults have adopted some kind of energy efficient or sustainable practices around the home such as installing energy saving CFL light bulbs, turning off lights or lowering the thermostat. Of those involved in the survey, it was also determined that as many as 58 percent were also using techniques to lower energy and water costs outdoors as well, including the planting of shade trees, the harvesting of rainwater and the recycling of water for plants and landscaping.

While there is still a gap between the indoors and outdoors, this is a gap that is quickly shrinking as more homeowners become more savvy to potentially energy saving techniques and practices that can be employed not only indoors, but also outdoors, such as blocking the solar heat gain or reducing their use of water. It is truly astonishing how much things have changed in the last five years or so. There are several different ways that gardeners, architects and building professionals can save energy and water in their actions, including:

1 – Employing landscape shading –

A home should be oriented so that it can absorb heat from the sun when it is cold, and can reduce solar heat gain when it is warm. Another way to achieve this concept is through strategic landscaping, by planting deciduous trees around 20 to 30 fees from the building on the eastern, southeastern and south sides of the building to help reduce solar gain during warmer summer months. These trees lose their leaves in the winter time, allowing solar gain during colder months of the year.

2 – Erecting Wind Breaks –

Windbreaks can reduce heating costs a great deal, and the benefits they offer increase significantly as these shrubs and trees mature. You should plant evergreen windbreaks on the northern edges of your home to keep cold winds from hitting your house.

3 – Control the heat island effect.

Pavement around your home is capable of radiating heat, increasing your summer cooling load, which is known as the heat island effect. By installing ground covers in place of pavement, you can significantly reduce the solar reflectivity as well as how much heat is going into the home. A great way to accomplish this is to install a large bush or a row of shrubs to shade a patio or a driveway, or using a hedge to shade a sidewalk, and a trellis which will allow climbing vines to shield a patio.

4 – Utilize native plants in order to conserve water.

Native plants can conserve more water than other plant options because they are better adapted to your local climate. By limiting your turf area, you can significantly minimize the needs for supplemental watering, which can significantly increase how much water you have to use to keep your plants healthy. Another option is to use mulch to reduce the evaporation in your landscape, and you should water or irrigate in the early morning when the rate of evaporation is lower for the best results.

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Originally posted 2009-02-08 05:59:19. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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